Cartel

Mezcal and tacos are achingly, unavoidably ‘in’ at the moment, so it was a surprise that Cartel – a Battersea joint specialising in both – was near empty on my Thursday night visit. That might be because the box of a room (dominated by a spacious bar area) is clearly designed for buzzy weekend boozing. But it was more likely down to the dreamy alt-country music being blasted out at high volume, courtesy of a guitar-twiddling chap on the floor. A shame really, as it’s a pretty nifty place: bare-brick walled, with faux Mexican ephemera dotted about, and party-ready. This is primarily a place for knocking back cocktails (or straight spirits – there’s a hidden mezcal tasting room that staff can grant permission to), and the drinks are good. Pasión del Mezcalero was warming, citrussy and heady with alcohol while a Tommy’s Margarita (with agave in place of triple sec) was a zesty foil to the food, the highlights of which were moreish chorizo-stuffed quesadillas and brilliant mango-topped and pulled-pork-piled corn tacos. Excellent booze food, basically. Modish it might be, but Cartel mostly hits its target.

mood spacious bar area designed for buzzy weekend boozing; dreamy alt-country music; bare-brick walled with faux Mexican ephemera; party-ready.

Every year seems like it’s going to be mezcal’s year to break into the mainstream, yet this diverse and often misunderstood spirit continues to hover just below the surface of London’s cocktail scene. It’s there if you know where to find it; but it doesn’t like to make a fuss. Now, in the midst of winter, it’s fair to say we all need a little more Mexican spirit in our lives, and as luck would have it, Cartel on Battersea Park Road is bringing just that to a small corner of SW London. Since opening in April 2017, owner Andy and barman Josh (formerly of Soho’s El Camion) have been making the most of their Mexican contacts and have built a dazzling collection of mezcal on the box-shelving behind this colourful bar.

mood colourful bar... authentically tin-roofed Mezcaleria